You’re wondering about the mountain? That’s Canigou, the sacred mountain of the Catalans, 2784 metres high. In the valley below little towns cluster in its shadow. The churches are always the tallest buildings, perched on the highest point, but they cannot compete with the majesty of Canigou. I used to go out every morning, along the terrace, ‘looking out at the day and up at the eternal hill’, fancying myself as the Reverend Eli Jenkins.